“Lansdowne: Abode of the Brave Garhwalis”

Lansdowne, the home of my regiment, The Garhwal Rifles, is nestled in the heart of the Garhwal Himalayas. Situated at an altitude of about 5,500 feet, it is a serene military cantonment town just a six-hour comfortable drive from Delhi. Though quiet and tranquil by nature, Lansdowne has recently caught the imagination of offbeat travellers and is emerging as a popular weekend getaway. 

The Garhwal Rifles, originally part of the 3 Gorkha Rifles, gained its separate identity in 1887 when Field Marshal Sir FS Roberts, VC, KG, KP, GCB, OM, GCSE, the then C-in-C of India recognized the distinct character and fighting prowess of the Garhwali soldiers. The regiment’s journey to its home began when the Garhwali contingent, then based in Almora, set out under Lt Col EP Mainwaring in search of a suitable location for their training centre. After an arduous trek, they discovered “Kaludanda,” meaning “Mountain Covered with Clouds,” and established their camp there. Since then, Lansdowne has been the cradle of some of the finest soldiers in the Indian Army.

My first visit to Lansdowne was in 1985 as part of the regimental familiarization tour. At the time, it was a small and sleepy military cantonment with few visitors. Even at the peak of summer, the town saw minimal tourist activity and took on a desolate charm early in the evening. The Garhwali Mess, though grand, had limited visitors, and the regimental centre had basic infrastructure sufficient only for the essentials of recruit training.

Over the years, both Lansdowne and the Garhwal Rifles Regimental Centre (GRRC) have evolved significantly. Lansdowne has gained recognition as a popular offbeat destination, while the GRRC has established itself as a premier centre of excellence for training soldiers.

In the past, Lansdowne’s main attractions were the iconic Garhwali Mess and the War Memorial. Today, its appeal has expanded to include the Regimental Museum, the beautifully restored of St Mary’s Church, the scenic Tip-n-Top viewpoint, and the enchanting Bhulla Taal.

I can confidently say that the Garhwali Mess, built in 1888 and now a heritage building, is one of the most beautiful messes in the Indian Army. Its charm lies not just in its architecture but in its breathtaking location and panoramic views. The mess is also a repository of regimental memorabilia, including fascinating wildlife trophies from the early days. Much of its grandeur can be credited to the British officers who nurtured it with great care and left behind priceless trophies and artifacts for the regiment.

My personal favourite, however, remains the War Memorial, adorned with a striking bronze statue of an “Unknown Soldier.” This soldier, standing in a defiant pose, symbolizes the indomitable spirit of the Garhwal Rifles. Erected as a tribute to the regiment’s contributions during World War I, this masterpiece holds special significance. A replica of this statue was gifted by Prime Minister Narendra Modi to the Indian War Memorial at Neuve Chapelle, France in 2015 during his visit.

The Garhwal Rifles is unique in that its soldiers are exclusively recruited from the seven districts of the Garhwal region. This localized recruitment fosters a deep emotional connection between the regiment and the local population, with almost every family in the area contributing a soldier to its ranks. Notable connections include Uttar Pradesh Chief Minister Yogi Adityanath, whose brother currently serves in the regiment, and former Uttarakhand Chief Minister Trivendra Singh Rawat, whose father was a proud member. The heavy tourist footfall at the Darwan Singh Museum aptly reflects this strong bond between the regiment and the people of Uttarakhand.

No visit to Lansdowne is complete without a trip to Bhulla Taal. Originally designed as a water conservation initiative, this small check dam has evolved into one of the town’s most picturesque picnic spots. Its serene beauty exemplifies the Indian Army’s dedication to preserving and nurturing nature and the environment. 

The story of Lansdowne would be incomplete without mentioning the leopards that live in the surrounding areas. These animals often wander into residential areas, especially the Garhwali Mess.

Lansdowne is also known for its ghosts, adding a touch of mystery to the place. One of the most famous is a former Adjutant, a ghostly horseman who is said to scold sentries found sleeping on duty. Another well-known spot is Bungalow No 12, called “Roberts,” named after Lieutenant Colonel Montgomery Roberts, the original owner. Many officers and their families have stayed there, and almost everyone has a spooky story or two about their time in the house.

Lansdowne is not just a tourist destination; it is a living testament to the legacy, history, and unwavering spirit of the Garhwal Rifles and its eternal bond with all its soldiers serving or retired. I am lucky that I got to visit Lansdowne for the inaugural talk of the “Lansdowne Lecture” series. This also provided me with a great opportunity to interact with the officers and soldiers of the Regiment.